header banner
Default

Recording Latin American Recipes, One Zoom at a Time


Advertisement

For her latest cookbook, “Latinísimo,” Sandra A. Gutierrez found creative ways to meet cooks to document the home cooking of Central and South America, and the Caribbean.

Sandra A. Gutierrez, dressed in a mustard-colored top, sits at the dining table of her home, which is covered with a tablecloth made up of vibrant squares. Behind her, she has an open shelf with silver and yellow pots and pans.
Sandra A. Gutierrez, the author “Latinísimo: Home Recipes From the 21 Countries of Latin America,” spent years narrowing down thousands of recipes for her encyclopedic cookbook.Credit...Eamon Queeney for The New York Times

Image

Since the 1950s, home cooks in Guatemala City have made cheesy rice casserole with corn and mayonnaise, which became popular throughout Latin America as it became available in grocery stores.Credit...David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Instead of taking the trip, she moved hundreds of preplanned interviews to Zoom and scheduled at least 40 online cooking classes with experts. To perfect sancocho de Domingo, Ms. Gutierrez turned to Francisco Castro, a chef in Panama, who taught her how to make the chicken and root vegetable soup, and followed up with dozens of other Panamanian cooks who shared their tips for the dish.

She wanted her book to highlight the home cooking from every country in Latin America, but especially the recipes from nations whose cuisines remain unknown to many Americans. To do so, Ms. Gutierrez combed through family recipes rife with measurements like “a little bit of this” and “a little bit of that,” and other idiosyncratic instructions.

She found other dishes from out-of-print cookbooks in libraries, like the one in Cartagena, Colombia where she dug through old books and talked to other patrons while her husband, Luis Gutierrez, enjoyed a day at the beach. She used her research to uncover commonalities in the recipes she used as references for her own dishes in her book.

“There’s so much more that could’ve been included,” she said, adding that there’s a dearth of modern cookbooks representing Latin American cuisine. “I’m one writer, one author, and none of us can cover the entirety of Latin American food in one book.”

For decades, Ms. Gutierrez, who is the author of four other cookbooks including “The New Southern-Latino Table,” has kept a running list of thousands of dishes hoping that one day, she’d be able to use them for a more encyclopedic book.

Image

Pasta con palta, a creamy, vegan avocado pesto pasta, is made by home cooks in Chile with Hass avocados, the most common variety produced there.Credit...David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.


Born in Philadelphia but raised by her Guatemalan parents in Guatemala City, Ms. Gutierrez spent her childhood traveling throughout Central America. For 30 years, she’s lived in Cary, N.C., where she worked as the food editor for The Cary News and taught cooking classes.

As she sorted through her recipes for “Latinísimo,” she decided to organize the dishes by ingredient instead of by country to better illustrate the role of exchanges brought on by colonialism and immigrants who moved to the region.

But with modern habits in mind, she prioritized recipes that are weeknight friendly and include ingredients that busy home cooks can easily find in their grocery stores or online. The Spanish edition of “Latinísimo” contains a glossary that aims to tackle regional differences in the language: Leeks, depending on the country, are known as porro, ajoporro, cebolla larga, puerro and puerrito, for example.

Still, there is much about Latin American cuisine that is confined to the home cook’s kitchen, undocumented by cookbooks, said Maricel Presilla, the author of “Gran Cocina Latina,” which won the cookbook of the year award from the James Beard Foundation in 2013.

“There’s a very important generation of cooks that’s disappearing, and there are recipes that are endangered everywhere that need to be saved,” Ms. Presilla said.

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section

D

, Page

4

of the New York edition

with the headline:

Scouring Latin America for Family Recipes. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

Advertisement

Sources


Article information

Author: Pamela Bonilla

Last Updated: 1703466361

Views: 1540

Rating: 3.7 / 5 (38 voted)

Reviews: 82% of readers found this page helpful

Author information

Name: Pamela Bonilla

Birthday: 1986-06-17

Address: 2465 King Dam, Jeanetteborough, AL 40732

Phone: +4335671816440723

Job: Chef

Hobby: Sewing, Rock Climbing, Embroidery, Chocolate Making, Running, Board Games, Card Games

Introduction: My name is Pamela Bonilla, I am a important, capable, lively, unreserved, esteemed, resolved, persistent person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.